Where to eat and keep in Hanoi’s Old Quarter: Pho, egg espresso, xoi xeo and luxe resort | UNW

Hanoi is a city of contrasts. You’ll encounter seafood vendors shifting tubs of slithering eels across the street; and just as likely, you might see a pour-over made from locally grown coffee beans right next door. In an alley, goatee-sporting creative types slurp pho on low tables, sharing condiments with housewives catching a quick break.

I was in Vietnam’s capital at the invitation of Fairmont Hanoi, located just minutes from Hoan Kiem Lake, to attend its grand opening in late March. It was a quick stop, not enough time to leisurely sip Vietnamese drip coffee a hair’s width away from a passing train on that Instagram-famous train street.

At least I didn’t have to risk life and limb to find good pho. Furthermore, with the city’s urban restructuring underway, exploring the Old Quarter, Hanoi’s cultural heart, on foot is about to get more pleasant. 

“A lot of office buildings were no longer needed and are being removed to create more public spaces,” said Do Hanh Dung, the hotel’s senior sales manager. “I live in this area and I like that there is going to be more space, particularly more greenery, for everyone to enjoy.”

The new Fairmont Hanoi is part of this changing scene. Each of its 241 rooms are spacious, elegantly designed with touches of Hanoi art, and supplied with Le Labo toiletries. 

Outside, the 36 historical streets of the Old Quarter beckons, each named for the specific goods traded, such as silk, silver or bamboo. You’ll still find these old-school shops but these days, they’re also likely to sell modern items such as SIM cards and souvenirs. 

Woven into this street tapestry are lanes, alleyways and even residential courtyards that come alive with vendors selling farm-fresh watercress and dragonfruit, mulberry juice, live snails, and jellyfish – an essential ingredient for a seasonal chilled salad in Hanoi. 

Occasionally, you’d come across a boutique inn, an artisan cafe or a hipster florist. It was all very intriguing, and I couldn’t wait to take a bite.