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Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein has reportedly filed confidentially for an IPO in Hong Kong. That’s not surprising — it’s been working on a listing for nearly three years. What’s notable is the apparent strategy.

According to MainFT, the move is meant to pressure the UK’s Financial Conduct Authority into accepting China-approved risk disclosure language for a potential London listing.

As MainFT reports (with Alphaville’s emphasis added below):

Shein has confidentially filed for an initial public offering in Hong Kong as the online fast-fashion retailer seeks to accelerate a drawn-out listing process and pressure the UK regulator into approving a London listing . . . 

UK and Chinese regulators failed to agree on appropriate language to be used in the risk disclosure section of its prospectus. The differences related particularly to Shein’s supply chain exposure to the politically sensitive Xinjiang region, where China has been accused of human rights abuses against the indigenous Uyghur population.

The UK’s Financial Conduct Authority approved a version of Shein’s prospectus earlier this year, but it was not accepted by the CSRC. In recent years, the Beijing-based regulator has become stricter on how companies describe the risks associated with operating businesses in China, according to the people.

Shein has filed to float in Hong Kong in part to try to pressure the UK regulator into compromising on its risk disclosure requirements and keep alive what could be the biggest IPO on the London market in years, according to the people. Fundraising from IPOs in London has sunk to a 30-year low in 2025.

If the FCA is willing to accept a CSRC-approved prospectus, London would still be Shein’s preferred exchange, given its more diverse and international investor base, the people said. They added that the chances were slim, given that the regulators’ requirements were still wide apart.

In short, Shein’s London IPO plans have stalled over a stand-off between UK and Chinese regulators about how to describe the company’s exposure to Xinjiang. The FCA signed off on one version, but it was rejected by China’s securities regulator, the CSRC, which has tightened control over how issuers portray Chinese risks in foreign filings.

There is no real investor protection issue at stake here. Anyone seriously considering investing in Shein already understands the geopolitical risks: Xinjiang, tariffs, sanctions, supply chains. It’s all been covered in media reports, analyst research, NGO bulletins, and parliamentary hearings. Whatever Shein’s prospectus ends up saying in the “Risk Factors” section won’t add much — if anything — to that knowledge.

And that because the Risk Factors bit isn’t where investors go to learn about real-world risk. It’s where lawyers go to cover their and their clients’ backsides.

The Risk Factors of any IPO document is dumping ground, designed to throw in every conceivable threat, from war and pestilence to currency market fluctuation. It’s written by lawyers and for lawyers. We have therefore previously described it as:

. . . a mixture of alarmist legal jargon and boilerplate gobbledegook more suited to shielding issuers and underwriters from liability than to informing investors.

And if anything we were being charitable. What’s really at stake in the Shein situation is political narrative.

If the FCA accepts CSRC-approved language, it in effect endorses a Beijing-vetted version of the situation in Xinjiang. That’s awkward, especially after a Shein executive dodged questions from a UK parliamentary committee in January about whether its clothes contain cotton from Xinjiang.

Meanwhile, China has grown more assertive in setting the narrative, barring banks from including anything in IPO documents that could “misrepresent” or “disparage” the country’s legal or business environment. Hong Kong’s exchange has also dropped its China-specific risk factor requirement.

So what’s Shein doing? It’s trying to force London’s hand. The Hong Kong listing is likely Plan A — and probably the only real plan. But if the UK caves to China’s preferred wording, it gives Shein optionality and hands Beijing a political win. These filings may be “confidential,” but they seem to always leak to the press, and so any concession would almost certainly find its way into the public domain.

In any case, it’s hard to take Shein’s flirtation with London at face value. As FTAV argued recently, a London IPO doesn’t make sense for the company. Why list in a jurisdiction where MPs are deeply sceptical, ESG scrutiny is intense, and the IPO roadshow would trigger another round of Xinjiang headlines? Why risk having your listing celebration disrupted by demonstrators?

Hong Kong, in contrast, offers access to capital, regulatory credibility, and fewer political headaches. London’s IPO market has been moribund for the last three years, and there’s no reason to believe it would offer better pricing or deeper liquidity. Keeping London in the mix seems more about leverage than intent.

So this isn’t a dispute about ensuring proper disclosure. Rather, it is about forcing the FCA into a symbolic choice: approve Beijing’s language and look compromised, or reject it and risk being blamed from driving Shein away.

In the end, nothing in the final prospectus will materially change how investors assess Shein. They’ll make their own decisions based on fundamentals, governance, and supply chain transparency — not lawyered-up risk disclosures.

This latest manoeuvre isn’t about reaching a workable compromise to make a London listing happen. The only question is whether the FCA will swallow Beijing’s language just to stay in a game that London has, realistically, already lost?

https://www.ft.com/content/bb85ec7a-230f-4c70-9618-8ef0e2b61c3e

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