In 1923, Dutch archaeologists made a stunning discovery at the base of a lush green river valley near Ubud in the southern riverlands of Bali: a limestone wall covered in intricate stone carvings of demons and mythological beings. The mouth of the largest carving, which some say resembles the Hindu elephant-headed god Ganesh, led into a cave crammed with ancient relics. Despite decades of study and research, no one has been unable to verify either the age or purpose of the carvings, other than to assume they were designed to ward off evil spirits. The earliest known mention of the site, known as Goa Gajah, the Elephant Cave, is found in the Desawarnana, a Javanese poem from 1365, though it is believed to be around 1000 years old. The mystery of who built it and for what purpose was further complicated when fountains and a bathing pool were discovered in 1954, along with Buddhist images, stupas and relics, suggesting that it was originally a sanctuary of sorts. Tourists began visiting Goa Gajah in the late 1960s when it was added to the itinerary of day tours at the InterContinental Bali Beach Hotel, the first five-star internationally branded resort in Bali. The archaeological site proved so popular that the InterContinental’s F&B manager established a restaurant at the entrance to cater to guests’ needs. Today, a small but steady stream of tourists, mostly from India, visit Goa Gajah every day. From the car park, one must run the gauntlet between rows of souvenir shops, where enthusiastic shopkeepers flog drinks, snacks and wooden carvings. There’s a ticket office near the entrance, which charges foreigners $5, and a long flight of moss-covered stairs that leads down to the cave. There are two stone-edge bathing pools at the centre of the site and seven statues of women holding water pitchers that depict the seven holy rivers of India. Tourists are allowed to explore the edges but only worshippers are allowed into the baths, which are fed by natural springs and believed to possess healing properties. In front of the baths is an ancient platform covered with more than 100 “cairns”, piles of natural stones and broken chunks of stone temples. There is no signage to explain its significance; however, in Buddhism the act of stacking stones represents balance, and is thought to please spirits and gods. The main attraction, the rock wall with the carvings, lies perpendicular to this platform. The cave entrance is several metres wide and runs about 50m deep, and is pockmarked by nooks holding ancient Hindu relics of lingams and yonis: Hindu symbols of fertility. Beyond its archeological value, the grounds of Goa Gajah are a pleasure to explore, with hidden shrines and temples, manicured gardens, cascading waterfalls and tranquil meditation spots nestled in the bright green landscape. One can spend hours immersing oneself in the beauty of this ancient wonder, shrouded in mystery and myth.
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+ Goa Gajah is at Bedulu Village, 6km from Ubud. It takes about two hours to get there by taxi from Kuta or Canggu. Visitors wearing shorts must buy or rent a sarong at a stall near the entrance to tie around the waist before going inside. The entrance fee is 50,000 IDR ($5) a person. There is no wheelchair access. Opening hours are 8am to 5pm.
https://thewest.com.au/travel/balis-mysterious-elephant-cave-c-17787816
