For our final night time in La Paz, Mexico, we saved it easy: A few cans of chilly Pacifico, a bench on the malecón, town’s waterfront promenade, and the sundown glowing orange over the shimmering silver-blue Sea of Cortez. My husband, Alex, and I had spent practically every week taking scenic desert drives and lazy metropolis strolls, visiting beautiful seashores and mountains, and having fun with a gradual eating regimen of fish tacos and mezcalitas. But now we have been salt-coated and sinking right into a blissful exhaustion that comes solely after a day spent scuba diving.
La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur, the Mexican state the place some 42 p.c of the land and water are pure protected areas, and town lies on the Sea of Cortez, also called the Gulf of California, thought of one of many world’s most various marine environments. Travelers have lengthy been drawn to the area’s superb outside, a particular mixture of ocean and red-hued desert, to spend days not solely diving, but in addition crusing, kayaking, fishing, kite browsing, mountain biking, tenting and mountaineering.
In latest years, town has maintained its sturdy dedication to environmental conservation, however has additionally welcomed new eating places and lodging, assembly a rising need amongst many vacationers to Mexico for genuine experiences discovered past the partitions of an unlimited resort.
“This is an adventure destination,” mentioned Luz Maria Zepeda, the director of town’s tourism board. “We want people who want to explore, who want to preserve the environment the way it is, and to help us protect it.”
Growth, however saved in examine
Home to round 300,000 individuals, La Paz has a decidedly laid-back really feel — “The Peace,” it’s aptly named — and is commonly overshadowed by Los Cabos, a municipality on the state’s southernmost tip that features San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, in addition to by tiny Todos Santos, a trendy vacation spot for artwork and meals on the Pacific Coast.
Indeed, whereas La Paz had a record-breaking 600,000 vacationers in 2023, Los Cabos — by way of cruises and air alone — welcomes 3 million vacationers yearly.
La Paz’s comparatively modest variety of guests is, partially, a query of entry: La Paz’s airport nearly solely serves home locations, with direct flights primarily from Mexico City and Guadalajara. Most worldwide guests decide to fly to the bigger Los Cabos International Airport and take the two- to three-hour drive to La Paz.
The drive from the airport is its personal worthwhile journey, with routes working alongside the Pacific Coast by way of Todos Santos and El Pescadero, residence to Playa Los Cerritos, a well-liked browsing vacation spot. A barely longer, however epically stunning, drive winds by way of the Sierra La Laguna mountain vary.
La Paz is a walkable metropolis with good roads and ample providers. It doesn’t have any giant resorts, and there aren’t any present plans to construct any: This will not be a vacation spot with aspirations of imitating the all-inclusive, tourist-heavy spring break vibes lengthy related to Cabo. Instead of a waterfront dominated by restricted personal entry, La Paz has the malecón, which was renovated in 2020 and 2021. Last April, a proposal to construct a big port for cruise ships was withdrawn after native pushback.
“We don’t want massive tourism,” mentioned Ivan Félix, the supervisor of the tour and journey division of the La Paz tourism board. “The idea is not to grow in numbers, but in quality.”
That has translated to a bevy in smaller, higher-end lodge openings: Hotel Indigo, previously the Costabaja Resort & Spa, was renovated and reopened by IHG in December and Republica Pagana, an adults-only boutique lodge with a rooftop bar and restaurant, welcomed its first visitors in January. Grupo Habita opened the Baja Club Hotel in a former colonial villa in 2021 on the malecón. Hilton plans to finish a renovation of the historic La Perla Hotel, which first opened in 1940, by the top of this yr.
That refined development may also be discovered within the metropolis’s culinary scene, which continues to be dominated by the area’s recent seafood, flour tortillas and ranch-driven fare like meat-filled molcajetes and snack-sized burritos. Fried fish tacos stay stalwarts, from avenue stands to informal eateries like Taco Fish La Paz (featured on the Netflix collection “Taco Chronicles,”) and Toto Frito, the place you possibly can attempt sustainably farmed totoaba, a fish native to the Sea of Cortez. We feasted on quite a lot of chilaquiles at Maria California, a well-liked brunch spot, and inhaled spicy shrimp aguachile at a seaside stand at Playa El Tecolote, simply north of Balandra. At Los 32 Sabores, a memorable dinner of manta ray and tripe tacos on recent tortillas and Caesar salads made tableside hinted on the metropolis’s ambition to grow to be a bona fide foods and drinks vacation spot.
Gratitude Coffee Makers, a espresso bar a number of blocks off the malecón, was opened by the husband-and-wife workforce Sergio Hernández and Gloria Olivera in 2022. The couple work carefully with Mexican espresso farmers, guaranteeing each high quality beans and honest labor practices, and host artwork exhibitions and occasions at their cafe. They have seen a determined shift within the restaurant scene lately.
“It’s definitely developing. There are a lot of people from the mainland that are coming here and opening restaurants. You can find a lot more things to do,” mentioned Mr. Hernández, who’s from Mexico City.
Some of that range could be discovered close by at Tiger Club, which serves Southeast Asian fare and pure wine. The restaurant is housed on the again patio of Casa Nopal, a showroom and store specializing in handmade items from Mexican artisans, each of which opened in 2022. Nearby, Sunrise/Sunset is a pure wine bar that opened in December. Nemi affords riffs on conventional dishes, which could embrace recent fish served uncooked or topped with hoja santa butter, duck confit in flour tortillas or pork stomach served with beans and nopales. The restaurant is the primary solo undertaking of Alejandro Villagomez, who in 2011 moved from Mexico City the place he was chef de delicacies of Pujol.
“La Paz is a magical place,” Mr. Villagomez mentioned. “We are surrounded by sea and desert, and we strive to find the best ingredients both inside and outside the city.”
White sand, cobalt waters
Still, for the entire new motels and destination-worthy eating places, the pure world stays La Paz’s fundamental draw. Chrissy Cappellano, a licensed grasp scuba diver coach from Long Island, in New York, has been dwelling within the metropolis since 2018.
“You have to plan multiple trips to see everything,” she mentioned of the realm’s wealthy marine life. “There’s a time that’s good for whale sharks, for whales, for sea lions.”
I met Ms. Cappellano when she led our daylong dive journey with Carey Dive Center that included a shock sighting of humpback whales and a swim with whale sharks, the wide-mouthed, filter-feeding fish that may develop as much as 30 ft. The remainder of the day was spent across the islands of Espírito Santo and Partida — the archipelago is a part of an UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, a nationwide park and a 45-minute journey from town — diving round a protected sea lion colony referred to as Los Islotes. The marine mammals didn’t hesitate to strategy our group, performing flips and in some circumstances, biting onto flippers and dive hoses. Perhaps as spectacular have been the faculties of sardines, glinting silver within the solar as they whirled round us like confetti.
Care for the surroundings is a standard speaking level on dive journeys I’ve been on elsewhere in Mexico and world wide; right here, it was an actionable a part of the agenda. Daily entry to whale sharks, which migrate with a purpose to feed within the waters proper off town, is restricted to a small variety of tour boats at set occasions. As we boarded our boat after our first dive at Los Islotes, somebody noticed a sea lion pup who had been wounded by a fishing hook. Ms. Cappellano shortly despatched pictures and movies to Rescate de Lobos Marinos, a company that helps monitor and deal with sea lions. Carey additionally made some extent to supply reusable water bottles for the day. (The state as an entire has been strictly limiting single-use plastics since 2018.)
It’s not laborious to see how and why guests fall in love with these cobalt waters, and why native residents are so protecting of them. Espiritu Santo is a geological layer cake carved with numerous small anchorages, beloved by sailors and fishing fans. But there’s additionally a lot to discover on land — the island is a well-liked vacation spot for mountaineering and glamping, whereas Playa Balandra, well-known for its white sand and shallow turquoise waters, is persistently named one of the stunning seashores within the nation. An simple 20-minute drive from town heart, it is usually a protected space, and limits the variety of guests allowed per day, with timed entries at 8 a.m. and 1 p.m. La Ventana, a 40-minute drive, is a well-known kite-surfing vacation spot. There’s mountain biking, dune buggying, mountaineering and tenting, too.
“You can pick a beach depending on the wind. There are waterfalls and hot springs. Every sunset here is usually amazing,” Ms. Cappellano mentioned. “There’s just so much nature to be enjoyed.”
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