Finding a parking spot near the Busselton Jetty on a weekend in peak holiday season can be an exercise in frustration.
The breweries and restaurants are heaving, and probably don’t need another two diners queuing for a table, so after finding parking in town, my husband and I decide to stay there.
This fortuitous decision leads us to wander into The Banskia Tavern, where talented head chef Laura Koentjoro Harding oversees a succinct lunch menu (and a bigger dinner menu) focusing on quality local produce.
We order “bloody fancy” crab sticks made from Shark Bay blue swimmer crabs and Abrolhos Island scallops, fried chicken wings with fish sauce caramel, and a fish finger sandwich with hand-cut chips. The sandwich is deliciously bittersweet, featuring some of Laura’s last demersal fish supplied by Southwest Wildecatch.
Across the road at Baked Busselton, we stock up on breakfast essentials for our stay at luxe country Samphire Chalets in Wonnerup. An almond croissant for my husband, an entire loaf of banana bread for me. Why buy a slice when the loaf isn’t that much more?
There are cafes dotted around town including The Bean Chapel, where a former church-turned cafe forms part of a shopping centre, but I am drawn to the pastel and floral interior of Little Peach Espresso.
Handmade Busselton is a treasure trove of clothing and gifts, from sea glass jewellery to wooden items crafted at the local men’s shed. Everyone who has items for sale in this community-centred enterprise also spends time working in the shop. Ruth Marshall wanted a fun space, but also one that looks after local artists.
We have dinner at Inara, surely one of the fanciest restaurants to grace a regional shopping centre, complete with dry ageing meat fridge in the dining room. Opened by Daniel and Joanna Johnson in late 2023, Inara showcases the food and hospitality of the Levant region.
Daniel guides our meal selections: charred eggplant mutabal brulee with aleppo pepper soaked up by fresh-from-the-oven bazlama, a leavened bread with za’atar. It’s easy to taste why the slow roasted lamb shoulder with caramelised shallot tahina and cured lemon is a favourite among regulars, paired with a refreshing broccoli tabouleh dotted with freekeh, mulberries, seeds, mint, feta and pomegranate honey.
He also proffers one of his favourites, halloumi with pickled fennel jam, fermented cherries and fennel oil.
A visit to the calm waters of Wonnerup Beach, less than five minutes from Samphire Chalets, has a scary start. All the trees leading to the path are covered in spider webs with active inhabitants. It’s my idea of a nightmare but the swim makes it worthwhile.
I can’t visit a beach without later craving fish and chips. Origins Market sits amid an assortment of Busselton’s big box retailers, and I’ve stopped here before for a refreshing icy treat from Sub Zero Gelato or a cinnamon scroll from Dusty Buns.
This time, we’re here for my fried food fix and a classic steak sandwich that have garnered Onya Pub Classics and Burgers a 4.9-star rating on Google. The food precinct is buzzing with families lunching on Italian, Vietnamese, Japanese and Korean food.
Venturing 15 minutes inland to Chapman Hill for afternoon tea, we arrive at the beautifully manicured grounds of Hippo Lakes. Tablefuls of seniors are laughing and chatting over long Sunday lunches, coffee and scones … that have run out when it’s my turn to order. I’m happy with my backup choice, a slice of vegan raspberry chocolate cake.
The sprawling venue combines a cafe and farm shop with wedding and event spaces. It makes its own range of condiments and sells flowers from the protea farm started by the Wood family when they migrated to WA from South Africa in the 1980s.
On my final night at Samphire Chalets, I relent and make the 10-minute drive to take the obligatory photo of Busselton Jetty at sunset. Being a weeknight, parking is a bit easier, and the view is worth it.
+ Sue Yeap was a guest of Samphire Chalets and Inara Busselton. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.
fact file
banksiatavern.com
facebook.com/bakedbusselton
instagram.com/handmade.busselton
inarabusselton.com.au
originsmarket.com.au/vendors/onyapubclassics/
hippolakes.com.au
https://thewest.com.au/travel/food-wine/eating-beyond-busselton-c-21502826
